"Today, the kissaten are disappearing, replaced by Western-style chain
stores and a growing market of home brewing. Still, there are around
80,000 kissaten left in Japan, which are easy to spot in Tokyo. They’re
usually small and moody, and have the feel of a bar (stools at a long
counter, sunlight kept to a minimum) or a diner (vinyl booths from
another decade, lace curtains in the windows). Kissaten are not built
for speed — you go to one to collect your thoughts, not for a quick
caffeine hit. After you sit down, a waiter shuffles over and puts an
ashtray in front of you, then wanders away to give you time to light up
before coming back to ask for your order."
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