"The blood that courses - and it courses - through the heart of the city is chaos. Slick, Swiss-trained concierges and brine-fingered fishmongers say so: "caotico" is the Italian adjective most often employed to describe the place; it's a word blurted immediately and smilingly when Neapolitans are asked to talk about their city. This is both a condemnation and a celebration wrapped inside an exclamation, for Neapolitans know that there's charm in chaos. It's the grit in the oyster that makes the pearl - and they know a bit about seafood around here."
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